HELIANATELIER
OUR METHODOLOGY

DEVELOPMENT STARTS
BEFORE PRODUCTION.

We work with brands at different stages — from early references and vintage samples to complete tech packs. Our role is to help turn the direction into a denim product that is clear, wearable and production-ready.

Concept, Sketch or Reference

You have a silhouette direction, a vintage garment or mood images. We build the tech pack, source the matching fabric, and develop the fit from ground up.

Wash Direction Request

You have an existing fit, but need specialized wash development — natural vintage fades, tonal overdye or a sun-softened handfeel.

Complete Tech Pack

You have complete patterns and spec sheets. We develop the prototype, define the wash direction and transition the approved product into bulk manufacturing.

THE 6 CONNECTED PHASES

ONE UNBROKEN CONVERSATION.

01

DIRECTION

References, vintage pieces, sketches or tech packs. We align on the intended silhouette, attitude and level of finish.

  • Silhouette moodboard & proportion targets
  • Target fabric weight & wash-shrinkage considerations
  • Initial cost direction discussion
02

FIT & PATTERN

Pattern, proportion and fit are developed around how the garment should sit and move on the body.

  • Patternmaking and CAD development
  • Torso, rise and inseam curve balancing
  • Pattern adjustments based on fabric and wash shrinkage testing
03

FABRIC & TRIMS

We source and evaluate denim, stretch, weight, handfeel, hardware and trims around the product direction.

  • Denim fabric sourcing tailored to each project, including selvedge options
  • Custom metal trims and construction details
  • Project-specific trims and finishing components
04

SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

Prototypes are reviewed for shape, construction, details and balance before the wash is finalized.

  • First raw fit prototype assembled
  • Internal seam finishing & pocket bag alignment
  • Review notes & measurement adjustments
05

WASH DEVELOPMENT

Wash direction is developed alongside the garment — never treated as an afterthought.

  • Wash development against an approved reference
  • Hand-finished whisker effects and surface detail
  • Final rinsing and finishing
06

PRODUCTION

Approved fit, wash and finishing standards are carried into bulk production and QC.

  • Graded size run to the approved specification
  • In-process quality checks at key production stages
  • Final inspection against agreed quality criteria
Pattern drafting table in the Helian atelier

01 / Pattern Drafting

Patterns are drafted by hand on the cutting table so each curve, rise and seam is verified before any fabric is cut.

Sample construction in the Helian atelier

02 / Sample Sewing

Each prototype is assembled in-house so construction balance, seam finishing and pocket alignment are reviewed against the approved fit.

Quality inspection in the Helian atelier

03 / Quality Inspection

Finished samples are inspected against the approved measurements, wash tone and finish before any bulk commitment.

HAVE A NEW PROJECT IN MIND?

Send us your sketches, tech packs or reference garments. We will evaluate technical feasibility and return initial development timelines within 24 hours.

START A PROJECT →